A couples' trip to Tokyo lives or dies on the evenings. The city has more extraordinary kitchens than any traveler can reasonably reach, which makes the real work subtraction — the handful of tasting counters and kaiseki rooms that actually belong on a two-person itinerary, booked before the trip has a shape, with the hotel chosen to make the walk or the car ride short.
We hold the dinner reservations first — a sushi counter in Ginza, a kaiseki room in Nihonbashi, the tasting menu that closes its books months out — then choose between the top-floor calm of Otemachi and the newer, pared-back houses in Azabudai. The days stay open on purpose: a slow morning, one market or garden, nothing that competes with the evening ahead.